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Unless you can set aside a whole day to walk up the winding road to the colourful Church of St Maryam at the top, take a taxi or bus up and walk down.Mercato, Africa’s largest street market selling every single commodity you can imagine, is an unmissable assault on the senses.The Irish Department of Foreign Affairs issued travel warnings for certain areas, although Addis was unaffected.Despite the ban later being lifted, for tour operators like Irishman Tony Hickey, who settled in Ethiopia in the 1980s, the impact was detrimental and, he says, unnecessary.FOOD AND DRINK Don’t visit Addis without a traditional coffee ceremony.Reeds are scattered on the floor, the beans are roasted in front of you and a bowl of smoking incense accompanies your brew.Learn about the reign of the brutal “Derg” regime from tour guides who were themselves victims of the notorious Mengistu’s torture.Taxi drivers will point out the Italian Embassy, where two of Mengistu’s commanding officers sought shelter following the 1991 liberation of Addis. Gebre Kristos Desta, the father of Ethiopian modern art, taught at Addis Ababa University.

The “Red Terror” Martyrs’ Memorial Museum is essential but harrowing.

Nor should you forgo a palpitation-inducing espresso from the 50-year-old Italian machine in To. Ca Coffee in the Piazza area, frequented by a young, hip crowd.

Ethiopia’s cuisine is based on Injera, a flat bread made from barley-like tef flour, and a variety of different spicy stews.

Azmari music is a complex traditional music where singers use poetic lyrical forms to sing songs with two distinct layers of meaning.

Road Runner Bar and Pizzeria in Haya Hulet is owned by Tony Hickey.

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